Hi All
If your getting a white LCD the the first thin to look at reseating the flat ribbon in the past i have use the pair of needle nose pliers to help with this. In the meantime I’m going to have a check through the screens we have have here to see if there is any issues as mentioned.
Regards
Gee
The photo of the driver board shows that the right side of the FPC connector is not properly closed. It was pretty difficult to get the connector closed for me too, I had to use pliers to very carefully squeeze it closed.
Just created an account to add to the people who have a dead/white display. Tried the display with another PC, and it displays white output only. The Pi works fine with other displays - all the correct settings etc.Rest of the cabinet was great - so I’m looking for another display option. Possibly slightly larger - I’d like to get one with another new display board too, in case that is the issue. Any recommendations?
Hi, I also have this problem… I just finished building my picade, and after turning on, the screen just goes white and then turns off…
I see all the buttons and arcade stick working, because the board shows feedback.
Connected the Pi2 to another hdmi screen, and worked without any issues.
I’m using a Pi2, retropie 3.5, with the standard picade 8" screen and a 5v Pi power supply.
Any pointers to a new guy?
Definitely double-check the ribbon cable between the LCD and the driver board. It’s proven to be more often than not the culprit so far!
Thanks! That solved it!!
It’s a fiddly little thing, isn’t it? It’s not really easy to tell if it’s unplugged or not.
Also, has anyone had issues with the screen blinking out for a few moments if the sound in the speakers is turned at max?
Very, very fiddley. I’ve learned to hate flat flex connectors. That said, I’ve also got very, very good at connecting them after assembling touchscreens for months.
We’ve been investigating a volume limit on the Picade PCB since at max volume, with a high input volume it will pull something ridiculous like 1.3A. It doesn’t take a mathematician to figure that 1.3A + 700mA is already 2A, without even factoring in the screen. D’oh!
What’s happening is that the Picade PCB is peaking over 600mA and tripping your Pi’s USB current limiter, which defaults to 600mA but can be raised to 1.2A with (and I’m not sure which works) the following line in /boot/config.txt:
safe_mode_gpio=4
or
max_usb_current=1
Raising to 1.2A may solve your problem, or if your output volume is particularly loud it may just just the amp a higher limit to hit.
There are a dozen other ways to power the whole setup which may help, too, and we’re looking into what might work best. Simple things like running the Picade PCB and screen through a good powered USB hub will make a world of difference.
Thanks a lot for the help!
It made a hell of a difference! I’m loving my picade to death… Even my old man is having a go at it!
Also, I’m trying to convince the guys at the office to get one for our brainstorming sessions!
I’m really curious to see the how the picade/retropie development will evolve through time!
Thanks again!
You’re welcome! I wish I had time to play with the Picade! I currently keep my classic emulation platforms portable, though, I can squeeze in some action on the train.
That said… a Picade on the train…
There’s a mod story in there, somewhere…
Actually, I end up using an android console for my emulation on the go. Used to have a GPH Caanoo, but that only serves now for my portable spectrum emulation needs! It has one of the best ZX emulators I’ve ever tried for a console - but that’s just an opinion.
Still, I’ve seen a lot of portable options being made with the PI2 + 3D printing. It’s getting serious, I think!
Im also having same problem, white screen, all connections tight. What the hell?
It looks like this is a VERY common problem. I have looked at all connections several times. Works fine when plugged into the TV. As a NOOBE I “think” I removed the “#” from the command file on the SD card. Also I noticed that while plugged into the TV that none of the controls respond even though there is a light on the board. Thoughts?
i think I will just order a self contained display… WILL MAKE THIS SO MUCH NICER!!