what is the recommended way to physically attach both these hats to a raspberry pi 3B+? Since the pantilthat only uses 2 pins over I2C, it does not conflict with the pins the on-off shim uses. Theoretically, these can work together. However, it seems they would physically occupy the same header. Is there an adapter that allows both these hats to connect to the GPIO?
If you put the on off shim on this >11mm< header
You should be able to then stack the pan tilt on top of that. Might want to get some extra standoffs too.
This set has some that can skrew into each other for stacked setups.
Might also want to get a booster header for the pan tilt, just in case you need it.
I do believe the pan tilt has the low profile SMT header on the bottom side. I’m not sure if that will be an issue or not?
ignore my post ,i should have looked first at the pi3b , and i cant find a delete button :(
i have a on off shim and a pHAT Dac on a pi-zero ,no header on the on off shim,soldered to the zeros header ,dac on top of that ,same as it shows in the description of the on off shim, just realised you using a pi3 , ill have to check if it would fit it to a pi3 same way ,nope the wifi chip is in the way
Me personally, I’m not a big fan of soldering a shim etc right to the Pi’s GPIO pins. Especially if its a 3B or 4B. It just makes it a PITA to remove if the need ever arises. Your very likely to damage the Pi trying to unsolder the shim. Doing it on a PI Zero wouldn’t be all that bad though, the Zero is pretty inexpensive to replace. Just my 2 cents.
If you do want to save space and make things compact soldering it right to the Pi’s GPIO header is the way to go.
Just keep in mind its going raise what ever you plug in on top of the shim up a bit. You may need slightly longer stand offs if the Hat has a full size female header. If it has one of those low profile SMT headers it may plug on normally with no issues. You’ll just have to make sure nothing on the bottom side of the hat is touching anything on the shim.
Solder Where ,i like living on the edge, you should know that by now .
i have another one too ,just haven’t found something to solder it too yet .lol
Different strokes for different folks. As you know I have a couple builds that have multiple breakout boards etc connected. When one fails they all fail, if they use i2c. It’s impossible to figure out which one is screwing things up without removing them one at a time. Thats why I like to use headers and plugs when possible.
There are situations where soldering it directly makes sense. Like if you really need a low profile. IT also looks nicer most times than a bunch of headers stacked on top of each other on the GPIO. And no needing all kinds of standoffs etc. And like I mentioned earlier. Doing that on an inexpensive Pi Zero isn’t that big a deal if things go wrong. Just buy another one. If it’s a Pi 3B or 4B your going to want to try and save that Pi. If you only have to unsolder 12 or so contacts thats likely doable if you take your time and are careful. If its a soldered on 40 pin header, good luck with that. I tried to remove the header on a dead Pi Zero. It had a 90 degree header on it and I didn’t have a spare for the replacement Pi Zero. I eventually just gave up and ordered some new ones. It just wasn’t doable with the soldering station I have here at home.
for me its a pi zero ,thats a music player,and thats all it will ever be used for … ,it has pHAT Dac and full of mp3, eventually the other one i have will be used on a full size Pi and i will use the header with that one
thank you all. I followed alphanumeric’s suggestion and soldered the onoff shim to the 11 mm extender
The pan tilt hat fits on top of that. Only one standoff wouldnt fit due to the onoff shim but the other three standoffs are enough.
Looking at it again it looks like on off button is where there would normally be a hole for a screw for the standoff? I hadn’t noticed that when I posted my reply.
I would think 3 stand offs should be enough to hold everything in place? It’s not any amount of weight etc.