What improvement could be done on the Picade

Thanks.

Here’s the links:

Powerblock I got from:

It came from Germany and took exactly 3 weeks to arrive in the UK (I’m a cheapskate and went for the cheapest shipping option).

On checking, the latching illuminated switches didn’t actually come from Ebay, I got them from an Amazon reseller:

They came from China and took ages to arrive. They are an awful lot cheaper for five of them than the price for just a single one from Maplins though!

Some wires cannibalised from an old PC case with pin connectors on them.

A 220R resistor from this kit of bits and pieces:

I soldered the resistor to the +ve LED pin on the button, apparently it’s not required though.

That’s it.

Hardest part was drilling a hole in the Picade door to fit the button.

Well shielded Audio cable. A lot ppl have issues with the supplyed one.

I did not improve my Picade much so far, just didnt use the zippyy joystick and the buttons. Bought Seimitsu ls 40 and some Seimitzu screw buttons.

Using a metal case now for the Pi 3 to cool it down. Need to test it still, not sure how wifi and BT gets with it.

Maybe one of these could be included?

With the Rpi screwed onto the back door of the Picade, it’s necessary to unscrew it to remove the microsd card.

Admittedly this isn’t something I do every day, but I do occasionally like to take a backup image of the card before messing about with settings/upgrading RetroPie etc.

I’ve ordered one of these extenders to allow the Rpi to be left securely screwed to the door while the sd card can be removed/replaced for backup.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/182218715289

Would be a relatively low-cost addition to the kit though?

Honestly I could not recomment the use of such cable.
You may get lucky and have no issues, but on the other hands you may get a lot of reliability issue, that add a notable length to the SD bus, this sort of flex are good to add all sort of noise, and other issues on these digital lines.

What may happen from nothing if you really are lucky, to SD speed reduction, to data corruption and in the worst case, nothing is working. So be careful with such a thing.

Hmmm, yes I was a bit concerned about the length of the cable, I only need perhaps an inch, but I couldn’t find anything shorter.

I’ll give it a try (after backing up the card!) but perhaps might need to open it up and shorten that cable a bit?

How did this work out for you? Did you find any performance issues or find a shorter cable?

Still not tried it yet - @Godzil scared me off a bit!

I was going to wait until I had done an SD card backup and obtained a spare card before attempting it, just incase it corrupts the card.

I take my Picade along to the local computer club, as well as letting visitors use it from time to time.

Once of the things I’ve noticed they do it press all the buttons to try to find the correct one to exit a game. Quite often they will try the volume buttons on the left hand side a few times, which cranks up the volume to the point where the screen blanks out due to power issues - they then think they’ve broken the picade!

Ideally some sort of limit on the amp would be good, so that it can’t have the volume increased so high that there are power issues. However my idea for an improvement mod is to just move those volume buttons to the rear of the picade, maybe even to the back door - as in normal use, there isn’t much need to be constantly changing the volume settings ( my larger bartop cab doesn’t have any hardware volume controls at all, it’s all software).

Anyway, my plan is to use these blanking panels to blank off the holes where the volume buttons were:

Then drill a couple of holes at the rear of the case for these smaller volume buttons:

Hopefully this will avoid the problem of inadvertent volume-related screen cut-outs.

Hi

Alternatively you could update the firmware to V2.3 and remap the volume controls as key presses.

Cheers

Paul

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Ah. That would also work, and would involve a lot less drilling, yes!

My OCD wouldn’t like pushable buttons that no longer did anything though, and although I do have a little wireless keyboard inside, I kind of like the idea that the volume is still adjustable from the outside of the cab, just not by accident.

Maybe I should take a look at updating the firmware anyway though, you’re right.

Any way of using the mapped buttons on the left side AND having direct volume controls on the top/rear via other buttons? I don’t remember if there were any additional inputs on the Picade board or not.

Hi

In theory yes as you should be able to map any button to any function. Not tried it though.

I can run mine at full volume without the screen blanking.

Cheers

Paul

I was thinking about this one…

https://www.amazon.com/Bplus-B1809A-microSD-Extender-Connector/dp/B00L9OB5LO

But in the meantime, I just bought a nylon spacer kit to raise the Pi up enough so I can grab the card.

I’m going to move the Pi from the door to the bottom soon and was thinking of mounting longways and cutting out a notch like the Picade Console has, but I may just stick with the spacers as they allow for better airflow.

Because you have a super power setup… ;D

I think most people use a standard 5v 2.4a power supply for the Pi, but Adafruit sells 5.2v 2.4a for the Pi3.

Note: As of Tuesday, March 22nd 2016, we are now shipping an updated 5.25V 2.4A version of this power supply.

I think that little bit extra would help run the screen and picade at max volume.