Connect neopixel to inkywhat?

Is it possible to run a few (5-7) neopixels direct from the inky’s broken out pins? I know there’s 5v and gnd, but is there a suitable pin for sending data to the LEDs? (I know I may need some level conversion on this)

I’m guessing that I can use the MOSI pin in the break out, as that’s connected to pin 10 on my pi zero and would be suitable for running the LED data line. But I’m not sure if it’s already being used by the inky…

Thanks for any advice

Pinout is here if that helps. It’s using the MOSI pin. And CE0
Inky wHAT at Raspberry Pi GPIO Pinout

  • Communication over SPI
  • Communication over I2C

thanks, I’d been looking at the pinout there.

Looks like any data line for the LEDs will have to come from the 40 pin connector, rather than the breakout then.

thanks again!

A Proto Zero with a stacking header will get you access to all the GPIO pins.

Thanks! yep it’s either this, or solder directly to the 40pin header tabs on the inky.

I’ve used Proto Zero’s and (hat sized) Perma Proto’s in a bunch of my projects. A lot of the time I use right angle male headers. Then plug female jumper wires into them.

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nice work!, that’s looking very tidy.

My problem is that the Pi is rather exposed, adding a hat like that to it is probably going to degrade the look of the project a bit.
I’m going to have to solder directly to GPIO18 and pull the data wire down the back to the display. it’s not too bad, just not as nice as using the breakout at the bottom of the inky…

having said that… have you any idea what would happen if made a small jumper directly from GPIO18 to GPIO4 on the pi’s backside? I could then wire the LED data in to pin4 on the breakout, that’d keep things cleaner, but I worry the pi would not like me linking it’s pins together like that…

Nice, really nice.
This is about as small as it gets. If you put long headers on the Pi, it can be soldered on and the Pi can still be plugged into a Hat.

Thanks!, I’m feeling rather pleased with this thing.

I may remove the GPIO4 pin from the pi header, then I could maybe short 18 and 4 together inside the header extension, or wire the GPIO18 tab on the inky 40pin header directly to the GPIO4 tab on the header. this would at least avoid having a long cable running down the back

pic of the front for pride’s sake :)