Hi
I have a Zero and a Inky What I need to solder wire from the GPIO (Not using the hard header)
This project below suggests that I could just solder the 10 wires as shown in the picture.
However looking at the official PINOUTS on the Pimoroni website, it suggests different??
Will it be ok to connect as pictured??
Thanks in advance.
PINOUTS - https://pinout.xyz/pinout/inky_phat
According to the pinout, that shouldn’t work. The pinout linked to from the Inky What page is for the Inky pHat though. I guess one is to assume they have the same pinout?
I guess one is to assume they have the same pinout?
If you follow the Pinout link on the InkyWHAT page it takes you to the pinout for the InkyPHAT, so they seem to be the same.
If you look closely most of the soldering is to pin headers or a socket header on the Zero, and most of them seem to be a 1:1 replicate of the InkyWHAT headers. It seems they’ve changed the Chip Select pin, but they don’t seem to be using the 5V line which the pinout suggests Inky needs.
A bunch of the grounds aren’t wired up either? On the Pi they are all one common ground (all connected together). Thats not always the case on the Hat though, They are assuming it is going to be plugged into the Pi.
I found this out with my LED Shim. Two grounds are shown as used. I only wired up one of them and it didn’t work. Once i hooked up the second one all was OK.
I can only assume that whoever wrote up the Thingiverse project got it working, unfortunately we don’t have the board schematic to check. You’d really need a better look at the THingiverse page to see whta is going on.
It’s a little frustrating.
Even on the Official pinout chart posted originally it does not indicate which Ground is used by the Inky What/Phat.
Do Pimoroni not have a spec sheet? Or even a schematic available.
I need to hard wire this asap.
I see my Inky Phat has a SMY header also.
Can I not just connect to that and ignore the 40pin GPIO?
The Pinout does show what grounds are used, it doesn’t do it very well though.
There are black horseshoe shaped markers on the grounds used.
You could use male to female jumpers. and not have to do any soldering etc.
The case I have has no room to use them unfortunately.
It’s flush to the back of the Inky What.
Not finished the code yet, but it basically shows the Current and next Octopus Agile cost of electricity for people on their tariff.
Ok, it looks like you options are to plug the Pi directly into the back of the inky or use a booster header.
Surprise Necro! I came here today to ask pretty much the same question. I’ve an inky wHAT on a Pi Zero. It runs fine, but I want to also power a little USB clock off of it, without using the USB port as it’s too tight in the case.
So, I figured I’d just use the diagram on Inky wHAT at Raspberry Pi GPIO Pinout and use a bunch of cable from a Jumper Jerky and connect it that way and use one of the free 5V and grounds for the USB clock.
When connecting the inky wHAT, it detects the screen ok, but doesn’t update it. So, looking back at the pinout guide I spotted that all the grounds have a mark on them. Does this mean they are also need to be used and this explains why it doesn’t work? (That site really needs a key/guide/explanation… if there is one, I couldn’t find it)
Also, looking around I spotted that the wHAT has a breakout connector on it. How do I know what these are and could they be used instead? I haven’t really found any information about this yet apart for a link to the shop on the product page
So, looking back at the pinout guide I spotted that all the grounds have a mark on them. Does this mean they are also need to be used and this explains why it doesn’t work?
Last time I checked, all of the grounds are connected internally on the Pi, but they may not be on the HAT. It’s a bit strange that it detects the HAT but doesn’t update it though, if the ground pins weren’t right I wouldn’t expect it to detect it either (how do you know that it detects it?).
Also, looking around I spotted that the wHAT has a breakout connector on it. How do I know what these are and could they be used instead?
They should be marked in white silkscreen beside the pins. At a glance I think some of the control pins (pin 27 Busy, pin 17 Reset) aren’t broken out, and these are what the screen itself will be hard-wired to, so you wouldn’t be able to completely swap everything to that breakout connector.
I got an Inky Impression recently, and I’d love to make a stand like this for it. I’ll have to look into it.
I was running the quotes example script to see it is would update. It outputs “Detected Red wHAT (SSD1683)” when connected via the ribbon cables, but never updates the screen!
I was meaning use that connector some how to power the USB clock. (Just needs a 5v and a ground I think!)
I just reread this bit and yes, it does appear to have what I need :D
I was running the quotes example script to see it is would update. It outputs “Detected Red wHAT (SSD1683)” when connected via the ribbon cables, but never updates the screen!
Oh, that’s odd. So looking at the library code for it, it uses I2C to detect the version of the screen, but updates the screen over SPI. Is there any chance some of the cabling is loose? How have you got the screen hooked up to it? Is the code you’re running something which worked before you did all of this?
I mean, it could be a loose cable (there were 10 of them after all) but I had the same problem after two separate attempts…!
I think I don’t need to do it now though. I can just use the standard way of connecting and use the pins in the breakout connector for the clock!
Current issue I have now is working out if there is actually space in the case to put anything in that breakout connector. being at the bottom means it might well be too tight! :/
Slightly hacky, but I have a piece of stacking header for an Arduino Uno from somewhere. The pins in them are long, and one is 10-slots wide, as wide as the header on the back of the WHAT. The pins are long enough that you can actually insert it into the back of the WHAT’s header, and then insert jumper wires into that. It is a bit janky, but you could secure it with some kapton tape.
