12.1 Inch Display Question

Shame they don’t post to the UK. Any recommendations for screens that ship to here?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_odkw=LTD121ECNN&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.XLTD121ECNN+hdmi.TRS0&_nkw=LTD121ECNN+hdmi&_sacat=0

Looks like all the units that list on eBay UK include the USB touch controller. You don’t have to hook it up, but it’s a shame to pay for it and not use it. The touch drivers include Linux, so it may actually work on the Picade but I have no proof.

Let us know what you decide.

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I think I’ll probably go for that one. Would it work?
Also does the Picade without a screen come with the 12 inch shim?

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I just received two Samsung LTN121XL01-N03 units from displaysscreen.com. They are the same 12.1" panels that were sold by Pimoroni.
https://shop.pimoroni.com/products/screen-kit

After spelunking all over the web, this was the only place I could find that actually had stock:

http://www.displaysscreen.com/original-ltn121xl01n03-samsung-screen-121-1024×768-ltn121xl01n03-display-p-2767.html

Yes, this site looks kinda shady, but it worked out well in the end. My spidey sense tells me that these are really test/reliability samples and not “new” as described. However, my panels have zero dead pixels and zero backlight bleed so…score!

I paid $19 for “expedited” shipping via DHL. The place (in Hong Kong, by the way) created a shipping label but fell asleep at the wheel when it came to actually having DHL pick up (a week later). Once on its way, it got over to me in San Francisco in only 4 days…not bad.

I got two control boards from eBay that work great:
http://m.ebay.com/itm/HDMI-VGA-AV-LCD-LED-Controller-Board-Kit-For-SAMSUNG-12-1-Screen-XGA-LTN121XL01-/151648143215?

They ship internationally from New York City. They’ll contact you to confirm the panel model number, as they’ll flash them with the correct firmware before shipment.

I spent DAYS and DAYS looking for an IPS (ok, PLS is close enough) LED-lit 12.1" display solution for my Picade. This is your best bet by a long shot. The brightness and contrast are top notch and there are no annoying CCFL inverter boards to deal with.

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Thanks for the reply. In the picture on the website the screen looks a bit small. Is it really the right size?

I also purchased one of these screens from displaysscreen.com. It is the correct size. It does not come with a driver board though - you’ll need to source one of those. The link posted by jopamo (above) is a good US domestic source (i.e., no long wait time for shipping from Hong Kong) for a compatible driver board. Search ebay for “180979602491” and you’ll find the source I bought mine from. Very good vendor, and if you communicate with them after ordering and tell them which panel you have, they will make sure that you get a driver board that will work with it.

I haven’t yet built my Picade because I’ve been learning about this topic and have been assembling parts. Once I get everything done, I hope to create a comprehensive post on this topic. Until then, allow me to contribute some of what I’ve learned.

First, there are other threads in the Pimeroni forums on this topic. Here are two of them:
http://forums.pimoroni.com/t/sources-for-12-1-screen/2124/8
http://forums.pimoroni.com/t/picade-alternative-displays/1787

An important thing to note about upgrading to a 12.1" screen is that it requires a different video driver board than that which is included in the Picade kit with 8" display. It also requires a separate and additional 12VDC power supply, unless you are handy enough with electronics to add a power converter module so both the Pi and the 12.1" display can run off the same power supply. You’ll also need to determine the amperage needs of the 12.1" display and driver board, and make sure that the power supply you use will supply enough power to it.

The screen you will want needs to be a 12.1" 1024x768 screen (4:3 display ratio). There are various model numbers you can look for, including N121X5, LTN121XT, HT121X01, LTD121ECNN, and LTN121XL01. The easiest way to buy a 12.1 LCD screen and compatible controller is to order them together. Search ebay for “170947783291” for an example.

Note, however, that there are two different types of backlighting used on these panels: CCFL and LED. LED is better than CCFL in certain ways (more modern tech, uses less power, longer backlight life), but I haven’t found anyone who ships a LED-backlit screen (12.1" 1024x768) and driver board combo, and buying one of these LED-backlit screens plus a separate driver board will be more expensive than buying a combo with a CCFL-backlit panel. CCFL-backlit panels require an inverter board along with the driver board - as long as you order the right board for the right panel, it will be included. Personally, I purchased a LTN121XL01 (LED-backlit panel) and a separate driver board because (1) it’s the combination that Pimeroni originally offered and (2) I wanted an LED-backlit board. CCFL screens can be significantly cheaper, however - check the model numbers on amazon.com - you can often get screens for $50 or less.

Finally, you can cut the shim that comes with the 8" panel to fit a 12.1" panel. Or, you can contact Pimeroni, and they will send you a 12.1" shim free (shout out to the excellent folks at PImeroni for their SUPERB after-sale support!).

Setting up the Picade with the supplied 8" screen and driver board appears to be super simple. Replacing the 8" panel with a 12.1" panel is a bit more complex, but it’s an excellent learning experience. I’m already planning another project to use the leftover 8" screen and driver board - cigar box Pi laptop anyone?

Good luck with your upgrade!

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Yep. Whoever took the photos did so at an extreme angle (lazy). At first I thought it was a 16:9 ratio display. LOL!

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Thanks for the advice. I think I’ll go with your combination. Will this power the screen + the Pi + lights?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RAVPower-40W-4-Port-USB-Charger-Desktop-Charging-Hub-with-Quick-Charge-2-0-fo-/252582127107?hash=item3acf116603:g:b0cAAOSwmLlX~mef with the screen in the quick charge 2 port and with this cable https://www.amazon.co.uk/2-1mm-Module-Converter-Barrel-Connector/dp/B01G56J4I6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478123304&sr=8-1&keywords=usb+barrel+12v

Good question! Unfortunately, I can’t answer it authoritatively since I haven’t tried them. Personally, my strategy is: (1) learn as much as you can, including asking others for help, (2) make the best guess you can, (3) make sure you are aware of the return policies and associated costs if your guess doesn’t work, and (4) buy it and try it!

In your case, I’d suggest that you weigh the cost of the equipment you have specified against the cost of one power supply for the Pi (use one with recommended voltage/amperage according to the model of the Pi you’ll be using - for example, a Pi 3 will need a 5V 2.5A power supply) and one for the LTN121XL01 plus driver board (which will require a 12V 1A power supply like this one: https://shop.pimoroni.com/products/12v-1a-power-supply). I think you’ll find that it’ll be cheaper and simpler just to go with two power supplies. If you want them to only use one electrical outlet, then plug both power supplies into one extension cord. Also, note that the Picade doesn’t have an on/off switch, so you may want to add an inline switch to that extension cord for that purpose (make sure the inline switch is rated for 3.5 A or more if you’re using one 2.5A power supply and one 1A power supply).

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Thanks but I want to have 1 plug.

Me too! Like I said, if you are handy enough with electronics to add a power converter module, both the Pi and the 12.1" display can run off the same power supply. Something like this:

plus appropriate cabling, should allow you to tap power off one 5VDC power supply for both the Pi and the display. I’ve read about others doing that, but haven’t yet researched it well enough to give authoritative advice. I may need to learn to solder to I can create the cables I need.

If you’re looking to make this real neat, you’ll want to dispense with the inline switch and install a real on-off switch on the Picade. Again, I’ve read about others doing this, but haven’t yet researched it well enough to give authoritative advice.

Much depends on how much money and time you’re willing to spend, how much you’re willing to learn (and what you’re willing to try and possibly fail at while you’re doing it), and how urgent it is for you to have it up and working. You can also get started with a simpler setup, and improve it as time goes on. I started with just wanting something I could easily assemble in an hour or so, but the more I’ve learned the more I’m willing to research and invest and wait so it turns out elegant. It’s turning out to be my first in-depth dive into maker culture.

Good luck! Let us all know how it works out for you. I will do the same.

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I’ve gone ghetto and have my 12V 1A and 5V 2.5A supplies connected to a 2 outlet compact surge suppressor that’s Velcro’d inside the cab.

I’m sure there would be tons of cheers on official word on a clean unified power solution.

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Jopamo and Rick_E,

Because of both of you I couldn’t live with the 12.1" CCFL I originally sourced and installed. I went through the same vendors and received the screen a full 10 days before the driver board… so much for NY seller, but I digress.

The upgrade was totally worth the additional costs and time.

As for single power supply, I went with 99% of Paulcheffus’s build:
http://forums.pimoroni.com/t/power-button/2774/2

I installed the 12v power receptacle, LED power button, CPT 12v-5v step down, ATXRaspi and have everything working with a single power supply/cord. I upgraded the joystick with the Hori Hayabusa and clear colored Sanwa buttons and clear smoked Semitsu buttons. I also put some USB LED’s under the clear buttons for a quick and dirty light up button configuration. Overall, the setup works really well and looks even better. I owe Paulcheffus a huge thanks for all the extra help!

I’ll post some pictures in a moment.

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I didn’t have a picture of it, but I’m currently only using 1 USB LED strip through the center now because of some over-draw of power. I’m looking in to the power issue but everything works great with the single strip.

Thanks again for the links and making me jealous, LOL!

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Dyltone, you’re the only one – in all of the 12.1 inch display forum threads – who’s owned both the CCFL and LED-backlighted displays who’s actually written something like that. THANK YOU! Because of you, I just ordered one.

I’d like to note that there are some GREAT deals on these displays on ebay if you know how to look. This is the one I bought:

Samsung LTN121AT10 $13.00 with shipping (used by “grade A”)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/222318104781

Yes, it’s used, but you can find them new for $30 including shipping:
[link removed because forums.pimoroni.com tells me “new users can only put 2 links in post”
5 still available, but if he runs out, search ebay for LTN121AT10 or LTN121AT11-801. There are still some used LTN121AT10 “grade A” panels for under $20 from other sellers.

Both are matte finish, which I prefer. These appear to come from the Google CR-48 and Samsung XE500C Chromebooks, so you could search for screens for those, too.

Data sheets confirm the specs are correct. I’d link the data sheet PDFs here but forums.pimoroni.com is telling me that “new users can only put 2 links in post”

A lot of times ebay sellers aren’t saying if the screen is CCFL or LED backlit. In that case, look for the data sheet online by googling “model number + PDF”.

I haven’t found the controller board yet, but have asked a few ebay sellers if they can program boards for me. Many of the controller board sellers say to do this if you cannot find the exact model you need. Be sure to specify HDMI+AUDIO OUT since we get HDMI from the Pi. Some of the boards are VGA or DVI only. The HDMI ones look to be between $20-$30.

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LTN121AT10 new for $30 including shipping (this seller has 5 available):
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SAMSUNG-LTN121AT10-LAPTOP-LCD-SCREEN-12-1-WXGA-LED-SINGLE/131656357851

Dyltone, how did you decide between the http://petrockblog.storenvy.com/products/13969704-powerblock and the ATXRaspi?

Pretty simple… as I said, I was mirroring Paul’s build I linked above. No other reason as I think they are similar in features.

I was looking closer at the panels that you linked to, be careful as they list as WXGA 1280x800 16:9 vs the XGA 1024x768 4:3 panel I purchased.

If you do have a source for http://www.panelook.com/LTN121XL01-N03_Samsung_12.1_LCM_overview_20074.html panels, please let me know as I will purchase an additional one as backup for those prices.

Just purchased one of thse from ebay for about 30 bucks with expedited shipping from new york.

It’s not LED backlit but still offers very nice viewing angles and response times (slightly better than the LTN121XL01 you listed) though the contrast and brightness aren’t as good.

I’m currently using this one

the viewing angles are crap and there’s a bright glow from the bottom of it. It’s also very dim with terrible contrast.

The only thing it has going for it over the 8" is size. I wish I’d done more research when looking for 12 inch screens, the one you have plus the driver board would have been well worth the extra 30-40 bucks.

I’m hoping this LTN121XP01 works with the driver board that came with the one I got from ebay. It appears to be the same board you listed and I already have the driver board for ccfl backlighting.

I’ll report back with results, hopefully it looks better than my current 12 inch.