Hi
Not nonsense at all 7/0.2 wire is only rated at 1A. You need at least 16/0.2 wire for 3A.
Your own link shows its only rated for 1.4A at most hence my comment regarding current.
Cheers
Paul
You need at least 16/0.2 wire for 3A.
And if you think that screen is pulling anywhere near 3 amps, you need some electronics lessons.
Your own link shows its only rated for 1.4A at most hence my comment regarding current
I don’t see that anywhere in the link. I triple-checked. But let’s assume I missed it. I also checked the spec sheet at http://www.vslcd.com/Specification/VS-TY2662-V1.pdf to see if it mentions amperage or wattage. It doesn’t (except when the screen is asleep, less than 1 watt). Let’s assume the screen pulls 1.5A at 12 VDC (18 watts) and you claim the cable is “rated” at 1.4 amps. What will happen? The wire will heat. Will it cause a fire? I don’t know. I doubt it. We’re talking pretty low numbers here. But I will monitor it, and if it gets hot enough, solder in my own connection. Best of luck to you.
Can you please keep the tone friendly, we are trying to provide a platform for interesting discussion, but I for one strongly feel that can be done without resorting to derogatory comments. Thanks!
Hi
Look at the maximum amps for chassis wiring in the link you gave.
I accept the screen may not pull 3A but that was not the point I was making. Badly specified USB cables have caused issues with power in the past and I was only drawing attention to this fact.
Cheers
Paul
Sorry if it came through that way.
Still don’t see it, but that’s OK, I believe you.
This is a good point. And I’ll note that I just read this review of the product:
[quote]
This cable as others have indicated has a very large internal resistance thus it will significantly drop voltage making it impossible to power anything that consumes anymore than a few milliamps, tried it with a bunch of devices, O-DROID C2, Rasperry Pi B+, Pi 2 and Pi 3 with the same exact behaviour, the devices would not power up although I could measure voltage present but dropping to 4.XX volts. I used a USB power doctor to measure current and the draw was about 0.03 amps (30 milliamps).
Don’t recommend buying at all for that it’s supposed to be a power cable, a function it can’t perform.[/quote]
So… good points, Paul. I guess I’ll be wiring up my own solution instead.
3D print looks nice. Looking forward to the finished thing. Now that my Picade is done, I‘m thinking about a mini Pinball Bartop machine running all the old tables. But I‘m afraid this has to be a Windows machine.
That looks really cool! Which printer do you have to be able to print objects that size?
I didn’t print it. I wish I had a 3d printer. I bought from a seller on etsy. It was $40.
