How-to: Picade 12" Screen + HAT + Single Power Source + On/Off Buttons!


#81

Hi

Have you tried it connected to the inputs below the USB socket?

Cheers

Paul


#82

If I cut of the micro USB will there be a positive and negative wire within the black wire?


#83

Hi

Yes but before you do that does the voltage converter not just have plain wires that you could use? The converter I used was this one
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DC-DC-Converter-Regulator-12V-to-5V-3A-15W-LED-Car-Truck-Camper-In-UK-/142407716211?hash=item2128294d73

Cheers

Paul


#84

Hi Paul,

It’s all fixed :))!! Not sure if it was the ATXraspi or the voltage converter or the silver solder but no more lightening strike!! I had a spare ATXraspi and converter that I fitted and used silver solder. I measured all the voltages and they were the same as they were previously so I didn’t have too much hope but when I turned it on, no lightening strike! Not even when OC’d!

It’s all working :)! Woo hoo!! Just some fun modding the looks now :)!

Thanks again for all your help!

Cheers!


#85

Hi

Excellent news.

The voltage will drop under load and if one of the joints had too high a resistance then the load would be higher.

Cheers

Paul


#86

Cheers Paul,

Yeah really pleased it’s all up and running, thanks again so much for your help, really appreciate it!

Just out of interest to isolate the voltage issue I switched in the old ATXraspi and bam lightening symbol back, must have done a faulty solder on the board after all (or a little heat damage)? Put back in the new ATXraspi and no more lightning symbol. You think there is anyway to rescue the old ATXraspi?

Thanks again!


#87

Ok it’s seems I spoke to soon lol, getting the lightening strike again just once on boot up, is it something I’m just going to need to live with?

Cheers!


#88

Hi

What amp rating does your power supply have?

Cheers

Paul


#89

Hey Paul,

I think it’s 5A, have attached a picture of the label. Also played around a little with the wires (took any loops out of the converter USB cable) and reinstalled retropie so got rid of the OC and the bolt has gone again. Maybe the OC made it really borderline on voltage? Was also wondering if the jumper cables were not good enough?

Cheers!


#90

Hi

Yes it could be the OC causing it to draw more than the 3A that the converter can supply. The Pi 3 without OC requires around 2.5A. The jumper wires from the ATXRaspi to the GPIO don’t carry much current as they are just used to signal events.

Do you know how much current the 12" screen requires?

Cheers

Paul


#91

Hi Paul,

I can’t find much official on the amps needed for the screen, although did see in a thread that people said it required a 12v 1.5A power input.

Cheers!


#92

Looking at that maybe it’s the total ampage? What was you DC converters output? I can’t seem to find any with micro USBs which have a higher A output than 3A. Although that is what everyone in the forums seems to have used Did find the below, do you think that would work better?

If so would like to add jumper pins to the ATXraspi but don’t know how to fit the connectors to the bare cables :/?

Cheers!


#93

Hi

The screen doesn’t need to go through the converter as it is 12v so can be supplied directly from the power supply. It was more the overall load on the power supply, the screen combined with the Pi overclocked might be overloading it. If the screen is around 1.5A then that shouldn’t be the case.

Mine is a 3A version but with wires like in your photo above. I connected it to the ATXRasPi using Molex KK connectors.



Do you know what rating the USB cable is that you’ve used between the ATXRasPi and the Pi itself as this needs to be rated at 3A. The one I used was quite short around 6" maximum including the connectors.

Cheers

Paul


#94

Aha,

Makes sense thanks Paul, ok so the USBs i bought are:

I use the shorter one from ATXraspi to Pi but I can’t see an A rating on these, also wondering if it is a little too long. Do you have a suggestion on suitable USB cable?

Cheers!


#95

Hi

The one I bought was this one but it also doesn’t give an amperage rating.

Cheers

Paul


#96

Thanks Paul!

Will give that a go! I think my Ampage is really borderline as I noticed the lightening strike also appears if I’m transferring on wifi via SSH which I’m guessing puts a little extra strain on the system.

Cheers!


#97

Hi Paul,

Been doing some research on this it seems many USB cables are limited to A rating below 2.5A. Some older ones 0.5A and up to maybe 1.5/2A on newer ones. Managed to find these that are rating up to 2.4A so will give them a go

What do you think?

Cheers!


#98

Hi

Might be worth a try as they are shorter than what you are currently using.

Although mine is not OC I am running the 8" screen from the same 5v supply as the Pi and I don’t get the under voltage (rainbow square) on mine even with the volume at maximum.

Cheers

Paul


#99

Cheers Paul,

New USB cables should be arriving today so I’ll let you know! Fingers crossed, mine just seems to be really borderline at the moment.


#100

Hey Paul,

Quick update, tried the new much smaller USBs same result I’m afraid. No lightening strike during normal use (no OC) but as soon as I start transferring a larger file via SSH I get the strike. Any more ideas or is it something I just need to live with? I guess I could try solder connections between the converter and ATXraspi and the ATXraspi to Pi maybe I’m losing power through the micro USBs?

Anyone else had this issue of undervoltong during SSH?

Cheers!