Keybow manufacturing whoopsy


#1

Found a little flaw on my keybow received today

It stops that key from working (keyswitch doesn’t contact properly).

Going to try and fix it- will see how it goes…


#2

That’s better! All fitting nicely now.

Edit: except not. Apparently when I tried to fit the keyswitches the first time, I’ve lifted the pad and broken the track. Rats. Bodge wire time.

And perhaps a new board?


#3

Aye, indeed a new board! If you drop support@pimoroni.com a line, they’ll get you sorted out.

Sheesh even with your circle around the part I had to look pretty hard before I realised it was rotated 180 degrees. D’oh!

Good luck with the bodge wire in the interim. I can totally see how pushing the key switch in would pop the pad right off the board. A bodge should be easy, but not exactly pretty!


#4

Aha! Is this, by chance, making the “6” key not work? I couldn’t figure out what was wrong, but now I know where to look.


#5

Post a well lit photo of the underside- I think there’s a small chance that the fault with mine could happen on any of the keys.


#6

I finally got around to taking photos of my Keybow. I’m still not sure what the problem is, but I can’t get the #6 key to work. It feels and sounds fine, but it isn’t registering any input. No matter which keys I switch around, it’s always the #6 that doesn’t work.

I’m uploading several photos I took in the chance that someone can see what the problem might be.


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#9

So all the key holders are in the correct orientation and the PCB doesn’t look damaged.

When the switches are plugged in, are the white bases sitting flush with the main PCB?

You could try gently squeezing the female connectors (in your first photo) tighter around the pins of the key switch.

Are you using the pre-soldered pi zero?


#10

Is that socket (the one that you’re pointing to in the photo) well-attached? i.e. if you try to lift it gently with your fingernail, does it lift off either of the solder pads?


#11

Here’s a kind of exaggerated example of what I mean.


#12

I think I’m getting closer to figuring this out. When I don’t have the switch plate inserted into the PCB, the socket looks normal (flat). When I push the switch plate into the PCB, the gold-colored pin pushes the socket slightly up on the “south” end (if the “Keybow” logo is north).

It’s only doing this for the #6 key, so I’m guessing this is causing the problem. I’ve tried holding the socket down while I push the switch plate in, but it doesn’t seem to fix the issue.

Let me know if you need a better photo. The second photo will show the lift a little better.


#13