More Screen Problems

Not only is it mirrored and the workaround doesn’t mirror the mouse I’m also having problems running any kind of USB thumb drive or SSD … Anytime it accesses the drive the screen power shuts down and plugging it into it’s own power source fixes the problem but I also noticed it is drawing between .87 and .99 amps which leaves no headroom for anything else because the Pi is limited to 1.2 amps total on the USB

Will the Hack Header 5 V connections handle 1 amp of current to supply the display with power instead of using the USB ports so I can get external storage to work?

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Picade? Picade X Hat?
If yes, are you good at wiring and or soldering?
On the Picade X hat, right by the USB C power jack are two solder pads for +5V and ground. You could take the monitor USB cord, cut the end off that plugs into the Pi, and just solder the two power wires right to the picade hat. They "should be’ a red wire for +5V and black for ground. Just leave the two data wires unstripped and unconnected. I would think it would be that same as using the pins on the hack header.

Actually I’d prefer that it was a soldered connection. I have a couple cords already to go that I can use. The problem with that however is I don’t believe that’s switched and is always on, while the hack header looks to be after the switching circuit. I could probably tack on the the pads on the underside and use some liquid black tape to insulate and tack the wires down for strain relief Otherwise the display will always be drawing about 140 mA even in standby … Since I’m also using an extender I could tack the wires there and then put the hat on

I also found out many USB 3 storage devices don’t play well with the Pi 4 and you have to add " usb-storage.quirks=:u " to the cmdline.txt . It is considerably faster than USB 2 drives once you get the quirks knocked out of it

Ah, yes nice catch, that likely is powered all the time. It would be right from the power jack I would think anyway.

Used a power only micro USB cord that already had a pigtail end, solder a 2 pin piece of header to it and covered it with 3 coats of liquid black tape using a toothpick. Plugged it into the 5V GND connection on the Hacker Header and it works like a charm without having to solder or hack something and void any warranty.

Instead of fiddling with the 4 pieces of tubing to mount the Pi I 3D printed a base for it as well as a mount for the SSD and covers for two speakers. All I have left is to design and print a cap to cover the hole on top with holes to run the speaker wires and mount the amp module. Software is still a bit dodgy, none of the Retroarch stuff in RetroPie has been updated to the latest version with the emulators tweaked for the Pi 4 and I don’t see an update coming from them anytime soon so I’ll probably set up Lakka on another SD card then I can just swap them out and compare. That’s why I like storing the games on a separate drive, transferring ROMs and artwork to the SD card was always the most time consuming part of the process plus you have the ability to edit games and data from a PC where it’s a lot faster than over a network