Finally put this together* and when it boots (Retropie) it doesn’t recognise the buttons/keyboard/input. Just sits at “no gamepad detected” The Pi (Pi 2 B) recognises the PC keyboard, but “showkey” doesn’t register anything from the picade board.
I’ve read all the posts about updating firmware, and then found out that the Kickstarter boards were different, and then flashing the original hex file someone dug out, I’ve been through downloads for HATs and fw, I’ve made sure the PSU is giving enough, I’ve swapped USB cables and yadda yadda yadda.
I thought about trying to update the board directly but the github for the original doesn’t seem to have the files needed and tbh this is all now getting beyond my ability.
So, I looked on the store and there’s a HAT+wiring loom and an actual PCB. It’s not a huge price difference between the two but before ordering one of them I just wanted to check which was the right/best one to get. I’m assuming the PCB as that’s the closest to the board that’s giving me all this grief but I noticed the current Picades comes with the HAT instead.
*not strictly true. I tried about two years ago and gave up when I thought I had a dead screen/board, but it turns out that was just a ribbon cable that wasn’t seated properly (and still seems to refuse to stay seated if I breathe near it but hey ho).
I can’t speak for that kick starter version but I have used the one after that. If I were you I would just order a new picade board and keep it moving instead of being frustrated with the old one.
Or another alternative…
To be honest my picade board went bad and I just put a zero delay usb encoder and a audio board. Worked great.
It has one of the new PCBs (not the Picade X-HAT) and a new loom in it.
It all fits together fine, except for me I had to build the ground loom from scratch, as the Maxi has eight buttons on the control panel, rather than the normal six.)
(I used the ‘spare’ top two buttons to control the volume, which if memory serves me correctly the original Kickstarter versions did not have buttons for.)
Oh, and the new board will need to be secured somehow too; the screw holes are in a slightly different position.
Hope that helps,
Simon.
btw: where did you find the hex file to flash the original Kickstarter board, I’d love to have a look at it, as I reflashed and bricked my board and need the original.
Ah,
I think I tried that in my own vain attempt to resurrect my busted board.
Yeah, it didn’t work for my original Picade board either.
Thanks though.
Simon.